Horse Training Tips – Balanced Ride
Dear Friend and Horseman,
Welcome to another Horse Training Tips Newsletter.
In this issue, I want to talk about a topic that I feel is very important when it comes to having success in riding or training a performance horse.
There is a good chance you are NOT going to accept what I say in this newsletter. You will probably say to yourself, "Oh, this doesn't apply to me".
However, put this information to the acid test. You just might find your riding and training ability greatly improved.
Okay, lets get started with the newsletter
The other day, I was giving a riding lesson to a would-be client. This lady wants to get started in reining so she bought a not-too-expensive reining horse and brought him over to learn how to ride him.
Well to make a long story short, the lesson didn’t go too well. Basically, the lady had a lot of trouble sitting the stops and turns. Actually, she couldn’t sit down in the saddle at all.
Most of the time, she was arching her back and riding on her pelvic bones or thighs instead of the cheeks of her butt (jean pockets).
Consequently, her horse wouldn’t stop right, he wouldn’t turn on his hocks and he wouldn’t lope slow either. It’s just a fact that if the rider doesn’t sit right, the horse won’t work right.
Now, I spotted this "riding problem" right away. I see people riding like this all the time. I mean, at least 90% of the folks who ride horses, ride just like this lady.
Oh yes, I can just hear you screaming, “HEY LARRY, YOU JERK, I DON’T RIDE LIKE THAT”.
Well, I hate to be the one to break the news to you but unless you’ve been riding cutting, reining or working cow horses for quite a while, YES YOU DO. You're just not AWARE of it. I promise there are very few exceptions.
And yes, I know I'm going to get a ton of email from people arguing that they don’t. All I can say is “show me the proof”. Email a photo of yourself sitting a stop.
And be warned, if I see you are full of B.S., I’m going to publish the photo (with your name, address and phone number) in a future newsletter and use it as an example of how NOT to ride.
Okay, I’m only kidding about sending the photo. But, I am totally serious about the way most people ride. They have just never experienced any other way.
Let’s get back to the lady who was taking the lesson because there is an important point I need to illustrate.
So anyway, after a half hour of me working with this lady, she got a little better but still no real success. I assured her that with more practice she would get better and it would just take more time.
She was fine with that and asked me if I’d ride her horse so she could watch him work. I said sure.
I got on her horse and as soon as my butt settled in the saddle I knew exactly why this poor lady was having so much trouble.
Her saddle was absolutely TERRIBLE. I’ll tell you, I couldn’t even begin to sit the stop.
I could barely stay in balance enough to lope the horse. I mean this saddle made riding well almost impossible.
I told the lady that her saddle was the major cause of her problems.
Of course, she didn’t want to hear that because she had just bought this one a few weeks prior. And here I am telling her she needs to spend a few thousand dollars more and buy another one.
The bottom line is, either you have a saddle that helps you ride well or you don’t.
Unfortunately, most saddles don’t. Some of the most popular brands actually HINDER you.
Every other week, I receive an email from somebody asking if a particular brand of saddle is good. And 9 out of 10 times, my answer is NO.
If you haven’t read the article on my website about choosing the right saddle for cutting and reining, you should. It explains what you need to look for.
In a nutshell, the seat needs to have a pocket (the lowest part of the seat) in the MIDDLE of the seat (approximately 2/3rds of the way back toward the cantle).
Some saddles don’t have a pocket at all or worse, the seat is convex and bulges upward. Other saddles may have a pocket but the pocket is too far back and forces you to ride with your butt against the cantle.
Neither one is good.
Also, for cutting, reining, working cow horse and team penning, the stirrup leathers should be hung far forward, within a couple inches of the swells.
Most saddles have stirrup leathers that are hung too far back, toward the middle of the seat or even behind the middle.
This may be okay for calf roping or trail riding but for other high performance events, it’ll make you lose your balance and keep you from being able to sit the stops and turns.
And like I said before, if you don't sit the stops and turns, your horse will not do them correctly.
About six months ago, I received a phone call from the marketing executive of a major saddle company. This company manufactures three very popular name-brand saddles.
The marketing guy called to see if I’d endorse their new line of cutting and reining saddles.
While on the phone, he had me go online and take a look at the photos of their new saddles. Enthusiastically, he asked, “what do you think? Pretty nice huh?
In my usual un-tactful way, I replied, “these saddles are exactly the type I tell my clients NOT to buy”.
For a full 5 seconds there was dead silence on the other end of the phone.
He finally asked, “why”?
I thoroughly explained my reasons. I also told him that it wouldn’t cost any more money for his company to manufacture a well designed saddle instead of the crummy ones they were making now. I also offered to help with the design.
He asked if I would endorse their saddles if they made these simple changes. I said that I most certainly would.
It’s been six months and I haven’t heard a word from them since… and probably never will.
I’m sure this corporation’s board of directors sees no good reason to make the design changes. After all, they have always sold plenty of saddles and continue to have a large market share.
Unfortunately, the key ingredient that is missing in this company is the same ingredient that is missing in almost all companies that mass produce saddles.
What is this missing ingredient?… A knowledgeable horseman!
The people who make up these companies know almost nothing about performance horses or how to ride them.
The companies are run by business people who know how to operate a business. And the saddles are made by craftsmen who's job is simply assembling pieces of leather. Most of these people have never, ever ridden a performance horse.
When these companies "design" a saddle and offer it for sale to the public, it truly is the blind leading the blind.
Brands of Saddles
Okay, after reading this newsletter, I know many people will ask me this critical question… “Does "such and such" brand of saddle have these design flaws that you are talking about”? And what brand of saddle do you recommend?
Alright, I’m going to list a few of the more popular saddles that I DO NOT recommend for cutting, reining or working cow horse.
To avoid getting sued, I’m only going to hint at the brand name.
Here is a partial list:
B—y C–k, T– Tan, S–co, Big H–n, Something Y, Cr-tes.
Actually, I can’t think of a single production-line saddle that doesn’t belong on this list. And there are very few hand-made saddles that don’t belong on it too.
Right now, about your only chance of getting a saddle that is designed right, is to buy a custom hand-made saddle. The brand name saddles you see being ridden at the money shows is usually the way to go.
They are not cheap. Prices start at around $3,500 for the stripped down models.
A lot of folks aren’t willing to spend that kind of money for a saddle. And forget about finding a good used one at a bargain price. It seldom happens.
As a matter of fact, most good used saddles sell for just a couple hundred dollars less
than a brand new one. You're better off getting the new one.
Currently, I'm looking into solving this problem. I’m searching to find a manufacturer that can produce a saddle with the right kind of seat and stirrup leathers that could be retailed at a price that's under $2400.
And of course, the saddle would have to be good enough quality that I would want to own
it myself. I just couldn't recommend a saddle that I didn't like well enough to use personally.
For research purposes, I commissioned a saddle from a reputable shop down in Texas that looks like it might fit the bill. The saddle just arrived last week and looks pretty darn good.
The seat and stirrup leathers are right on. And the rest of the saddle is good too. The leather and tooling are very good quality. I’ll let you know how it pans out.
Just for the heck of it, let me know if a saddle like this would interest you. If the response is big enough, I may try to put together a deal that would make it possible for my clients and members to get a really nice saddle at a really low price.
Mind you, I'm not promising anything. But I will look into it and see if it's a possibility.
ADDITIONAL SADDLE TIPS
If you've been riding for awhile and are still having problems with your balance, there is a possibility your saddle simply isn't designed right.
The usual symptoms include:
1. Falling forward when your horse slows down or stops.
2. Feeling out of balance when your horse turns sharp.
3. Hard time getting in a comfortable rhythm with your horse when he lopes.
4. Trouble timing your horse for hindquarter stops, spins and flying lead changes.
5. Your balance not feeling "stable" or "secure" when riding.
Also, if your thighs are touching the swells of the saddle or your butt is touching the cantle, THE SEAT IS TOO SMALL or not shaped right.
If you are constantly stiffening your legs or pushing your feet down, reaching for the stirrups, then your STIRRUPS ARE ADJUSTED TOO LONG or they are not HUNG in the RIGHT POSITION.
Just because a saddle is "custom" or "hand made" doesn't mean it is well "designed". A saddle maker can be a brilliant craftsman but not understand horsemanship well enough to incorporate it into the design of the saddle.
Same goes for the popular production line saddles.
Just because the manufacturer calls their saddle a reining saddle or cutting saddle, does NOT mean the saddle was DESIGNED WELL for those events.
The people who are designing and producing these saddles are NOT horsemen. Most don't ride or own a horse.
They are simply craftsman or "skilled labor" hired by the company to put pieces of leather together.
Well, this wraps it up for this newsletter. I hope you liked it.
Until next time, have fun training your horse.

Larry Trocha
www.HorseTrainingVideos.com
Would it be possible for you to send us a picture of saddle designed correctly?
Kind regards,
Morris
Larry, You stated"that you maybe looking into better saddles"? My question is this. How do you fit the saddle to the horse?
What are your thoughts of Wendy Allen Saddles?
@ Tonya
1. most barrel racers don't know how to actually ride
2. you want a more forward seat in barrel racing like jockeys in a race… heels down= always but when you are pushing them between barrels you want your hands forward on their neck and your seat in 2-point almost with long legs and low heels.
3. you sit down at the barrel. this is where you want your nice deep turn, so you sit deep.
look at the NFR barrel racers, this is how they ride! its the best way to get the fastest time…
Larry I always enjoy reading your news letter and training tips. I would be interested in purchasing one of these saddles if the arrangement works out with the saddle maker.Thank you Lou Kousouris
I'm not a trainer or even a coach, but I know when I had to find a saddle for my reiner I looked at a lot of them in the stores. Every single saddle from $400 to $4500 were built on the same tree and not a good tree.
I end up getting one made to fit my horse and me. It cost me a penny, but I can sit my horse's stops and roll backs and have stayed with him during optional spooks across the arena which would have dumped me before.
Also when I was learning to sit the stop, I had to learn to sit, just like you describe, on the pockets. I was just about crippled with a sore back until my back muscles learned to go with the horse. I always tell people if the want to see riders riding pretty well opposite to the prescribed theory, watch a NRHA show with the pros. LOL
Larry,
Alot of people have a hard time softing they back to sit deep. I like to have then lift they're legs up over theyre saddle horn so they can feel where and how they're butt must be in the saddle as well I have them take they're feet out of the stirrups and ask them to trot. They find out the blisters on they're butt will help them learn to balance and soften up and quit bouncing in the saddle. I think every one should lean tp ride in the round pen with out reins. It helps them learn to balance and keep the arms in and not try to balance on the reins. Better if you can do this with out the stirrups as well. Three month s of this is a charm to learn how to ride correctly.
Thanks,
Tom
Larry,
Just finished reading your news letter. Reguarding riding correctly.
I was at a barrel racing event yesterday( mind you I ride english, but have a western saddle for trails). I told my husband that the many of the riders looked like crap, heels and hands up, butts out of the saddle. I was always taught heels down and sit deep in your seat . If you rode with proper equitation your horse would go better ( if horse is trained properly). Know when I mentioned this to a few friends of mine( younger riders) they say that this is how they were taught in their discipline of riding(western). Just curious is western and english training that muc h different ?
The timing of this newsletter could not be better for me.
I am just about to order a reining saddle recommended and endorsed by a winning reining rider and trainer. The saddler has been very helpful as I ride a rangy thoroughbred ex-racehorse with a razor back which means it has been difficult to find a western saddle to fit (he's currently ridden english). They have also taken details of my leg length, weight etc to make sure the saddle is suitable for me.
The saddle is just about to be manufactured with a tree built to my horse's specifications and it will be supplied on 10 day approval.
What do you recommend I should look for when it arrives? How can I be sure it fits my horse?
Any further tips would be very welcome.
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