Sharon Horner says
November 29, 2013 at 1:49 am
Hi Larry what do I have to do to become a member of your inner circle
January 1, 2013 at 7:33 am
Hi, I just was given a ex cow cutting regestered quarter horse in excellent shape and health any advise on any special handling I might need to know to have him for pleasure riding. Thanks for any info you can provide. Thanks Lisa
Charley Green says
November 3, 2012 at 1:00 pm
I’m seventeen years old and training my five year old quarter horse mare. Recently I have broken my wrist when she bolted on me, this has left me working on the ground with her to find her problems. She’s not forward, she isn’t in discomfort or anything, she just doesn’t move forward and work, just the same as she is in the saddle. (She lost her balance while i was riding her and took off galloping in the ring, that’s what we, my friend and her mother believe is her problem) She is dull to her aids and considerably lazy for a young horse, since i’m still recovering and healing I have remained working on the ground but in the roundpen she still isn’t forward enough and just drags herself around, I pretty much chase her around the pen to get her forward which is something I SHOULDN’T need to do, she should be forward on her own because a correct pace is her responsibility to hold once I set it. I shouldn’t need to constantly remind her to MOVE. She isn’t to bad in her walk or trot but her canter she just isn’t forward unless i’m chasing after her and even then she wont hold it long and even if i back off the slightest she just like “TIME TO STOP.” Does anyone have any advice to getting her more forward? Or ideas?
Secondly her dullness. She is extremely dull to leg aid for her age, her previous home has very young clunky children on her and she has become dull to the leg. I have been working on the ground with her on pressure release with my hand and using a whip, she is improving slowly. Should I just continue with what I am doing here? Are there any other things I can do with her to help her improve with her response?
Thank you for your time.
November 3, 2012 at 1:52 pm
It’s much easier to wake up a dull horse than it is to slow down a hot horse.
You don’t realize how good you’ve got it.
To get your filly responding better, simple use spurs with a sharper rowel.
Within a month she’ll be much more responsive and you can go back to a medium spur.
November 23, 2012 at 1:08 am
I hope you don’t mind me commenting on your post, but the issue you seem to be having with trying to keep your mare in the canter is something we’ve encountered a lot starting colts, especially in a smaller roundyard or one with a deeper surface, a lot of horses will do the bare minimum you make them do, and especially are very hard work to keep in the canter, run a few laps of the roundyard and i’m sure you’ll see why. Personally i’d say a big part of your problem is she’s getting sour with working in the roundyard, and the fact that the previous owners had young kids hassling her wouldnt be helping at all. if once you’re wrist has healed you were comfortable riding her out and about with someone else, she may be a lot more willing once out of the arena (although you probably want to be sure she wont bolt again, or that you can one rein stop her). sometimes a change of scene does wonders to a horse’s state of mind (and the riders). like i say, i hope you don’t mind, i’m no expert but i’ve ridden young horses who are like this, and as Larry says, its much easier to wake up a dull horse than slow down a hot one
October 10, 2012 at 10:03 pm
How to deal with horses with dangerous habits like biting and kicking
Quick fixes for horses that spook, buck or runaway.
October 11, 2012 at 6:29 am
This is the type of question that kind of irks me.
Plastered all over the “Home” page are links to solutions to the problems you mention.
How in the heck could you miss it?
Go to: http://www.FixBadHorses.com
Denis Coene says
November 23, 2012 at 6:14 am
If you would watch the videos that Larry made, also posted on a youtube channel, you would be able to find them,Also there´s a lot of tips to find on his homepage,
Also depending on what kind of reason your horse bites, is for you to find out why he bites???
??? is it by saddling up the horse????
Then you´d probably check your saddle, to see if the horse hasn´t got any pressure,
I hope you´ll find out, what really is getting into her, and ??? the why??? she´s acting like this
Take care & cowboy up
September 22, 2012 at 4:44 am
Hi Kayla Quick,
Seem like your horse has a issue that works a bit on her mind,, of telling you in her way, i´ve had it, let´s give the horse a bit of time, of being a horse again, for a few weeks, let ther some rest, after that time she might be able working again, if you work her good, and correctively on her behaving,, sometimes horses can also be jallous if she would she you riding another horse, that´s what i had with my horses, in either way if the click was there it´ll come back i swear you that,, also incomfortable possitions can lead to a good performance later on, if you work her in the arena, or pen,
Have fun riding, Des
Kayla Quick says
September 22, 2012 at 1:26 pm
thanks for telling me this but i dont think she is over worked. i only ride twice a week or maybe three times and my horses always have fall and winter off to just be horses. although now that you mention it i have noticed she does better being rode last out of the group. maybe there is a bit of jealousy going on.
September 21, 2012 at 1:37 pm
Hi, I have a paso fino mare that i have owned for 6 years now. She has always been hot headed but until this past summer it was something i was able to work with. This summer, however she has become what I consider “unsafe” to ride. I get on and she will walk fine, but as soon as i ask her into a trot she starts rearing and lounging forward into a run. I used to be able to circle her till she calmed down and proceed and that worked just fine. Now though as soon as she has room to move she bolts. I have tried circling, bending and flexing, for a while i was riding with my hands really low to try to keep her head down but the longer you keep contact on her mouth the more agitated she gets, and like i said as soon as she has a loose rein shes bolts. I have also tried just walking her after one of her fits but she just keeps trying to move fast, and if i lounge her before I get on she is much more worked up that if I do not. I am at the end of my experience and knowledge with what to do with her. Any ideas?
Rhonda Wright says
September 23, 2012 at 5:05 pm
My first thought with your paso fino is to look for issues that may be causing her to want to bolt when asked to trot. For example, does her saddle cause her pain, are there chiropractic issues, have you kept her teeth floated? Those would be the first things I would check. If there were no issues there, I would take her back to the basics and start fresh with her on the ground. Are there respect issues? Are you uptight when asking her to go into the trot with the anticipation that she is going to bolt? She may sense this and feed off your emotions. If you have ruled out all of this and have gone back to your basic’s and none of this works, I would entertain the idea of bringing a professional trainer into the picture and having them work with the both of you to try to narrow down her issues under saddle. Hope this helps you and good luck with her. You have had her too long to give up on her now…:)
September 23, 2012 at 8:03 pm
You have received good advice from several caring people here.
All wanting to help you the best they can.
For what it’s worth, here’s my advice…
Quit screwing around with excuses and get your horse “BROKE”.
Doing so will solve everything.
August 24, 2012 at 5:28 am
The cause of that i do not know, because he had started it before i started to ride. Therefore I will try to eliminate every cause that you mentioned.
Thank you very much, you have made my training easier.
August 21, 2012 at 1:03 pm
While I’m waiting anxiously for my DVDs to arrive I have a question. My 6 year old gelding has very little bend or break in the ribs. I hoped to use him for barrels but his lack of bend becomes very obvious when trying to wrap the barrels. I tried doing the simple running the rein through the sturrip and tying off to his tail but not to short and he seemed fairly uncomfortable. When I rode him after that he seemed sore. What other ways can I help him to be able to bend and why does it seem so difficult for some horses?
September 21, 2012 at 5:25 pm
hey, I had a horse a few years back who didnt want to bend to the right. turned he had injured his shoulder. after a few chiropractor adjustments and a good massage in the area he limbered up! might want to check it out if you have not already!
August 21, 2012 at 7:03 am
I have learned a lot with your tips, and I am very greatful for that.
I am training a horse that moves his tail constantly if you could help me fix that annoing behaviour, I would be very greatful one more time.
that behaviour happens when I am riding and ask him for anything by mouth, legs or hands.
August 21, 2012 at 9:13 am
Tail wringing can be caused by:
1. Drilling the horse too much on a particular maneuver. (this is the most common cause).
2. Working the horse when he is in pain (sore back, hocks etc.)
3. Jabbing with the spur instead of “pressing” with the spur.
So, whichever the reason, simply eliminate the cause and the tail wringing will stop.
August 20, 2012 at 9:50 pm
I have just brought a yealing gelding in from the paddock to start working with him. I noticed that the tip of his ear is missing (only the tiniest bit) I presumed that I of the other yearlings his bitten it. It is totally healed and looks like it must of happen some time ago. I have flagged him and he accepts this but when you try to put a bridle over that ear he gets very defensive. I do not trust him when we have this issue. Other than this he is fine with all other parts eg. legs ribs rump. It is only the ear thing which I can see as a reall issue with him. Any tips of what to do to overcome this problem and stay safe.
August 21, 2012 at 5:49 am
Simply use those same principles of “flagging” to overcome the ear problem.
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